Exploring the coast and mountains of São Paulo
Parrots and the restinga
Red-tailed Parrot (Amazona brasiliensis). Photos: Tasso Leventis. Itanhaém, SP, Apr 2008.
The nearest coastline to Miracatú, known as the Baixada Santista or Santos Lowlands, is approximately 50km away, and is reached by crossing a small range of coastal hills. The low-lying plain between the Serra do Mar mountain range and the sea has been extensively developed, but retains significant remnants of the restinga or white-sand forests, among the most threatened formations of the Atlantic Forest. An 8,000 hectare section in the municipalities of Mongaguá and Itanhaém has been designated an Important Bird Area (IBA) by the Brazilian partner organization of Birdlife International because of its significance as habitat for a number of endemic species with a restricted range. They include the spectacular Red-tailed Parrot (Amazona brasiliensis), also called Red-tailed Amazon - whose Portuguese name, Papagaio-de-cara-roxa, refers to its striking purple face. Classed as Vulnerable, the entire global population spans a narrow strip of coastline of barely 200km in length, with its southernmost colonies occurring in the far north-east of Santa Catarina state. The small population breeding in the Baixada Santista is thought to be the northernmost outpost of the species - and is doubly significant as it appears to be isolated from the next known colonies to the South, in the Guaraqueçaba area, Paraná State.
Despite its IBA status, the restinga near Itanhaém has no formal protection, other than the Atlantic Forest Law which theoretically prohibits destruction of all well-preserved habitats in the biome. It is subject to constant encroachment by informal and illegal property development. The sight of birdwatchers arriving from distant continents to view its unique wildlife can help to reinforce the value of the remaining wild areas. Crucially, a growing band of Brazilian enthusiasts is now joining in what was previously regarded as an eccentric "gringo" activity. Ornithologist and bird-guide Bruno Lima has gained the co-operation and goodwill of residents and farmers living close to the feeding and breeding grounds of the Red-tailed Parrot. He can take visitors to locations where good sightings of the species are guaranteed, especially approaching sunset when they congregate in "dormitories" for certain periods of the year. This restinga location also provides a good opportunity to see other characteristic endemic species including Azure Jay, Salvadori's Antwren, White-breasted Tapaculo and Bare-throated Bellbird.
The Juréia coast
The continuous beach that stretches some 80km from the port of Santos to the coastal resort of Peruibe is interrupted by the dramatic mountain formations of the Juréia-Itatins, one of the most significant protected areas of the Atlantic Forest biome. It is among the few locations where the complete altitudinal gradient from sea level to high mountains is preserved.
Within an hour's drive of Sítio do Cervo, the community of Guaraú on the edge of the protected area provides another great birding site, with access to more restinga and mangrove habitats, all with spectacular views of the forested mountains coming right down to the coast. Canoe trips can be organised along a tidal creek where cayman can sometimes be seen. Species to look out for here include Black-backed Tanager, Black-legged Dacnis, Bicolored Conebill, Clapper Rail and Spectacled Tyrant (pictured).
Bruno has special permission to take a limited number of visitors into the restricted areas of the Jureia-Itatins Ecological Station, a unique opportunity to see one of the jewels of Brazilian biodiversity.
Mountain adventure
Hooded Berryeater, Zizo's Park. Photo: Tim Hirsch
To appreciate the great diversity of birdlife in the Atlantic Forest of São Paulo state, a visit to the lowland forest at Sítio do Cervo and the nearby coastal sites can be combined with a stay in the high-altitude jungle lodge of Zizo's Park. Set in the middle of an extensive region of primary montane forest in the Serra de Paranapiacaba, it presents a whole new set of species such as Mantled Hawk, Hooded Berryeater (see photo above), Short-tailed Ant-thrush, White-bearded Antshrike and Helmeted Woodpecker.
The park is an interesting example of the Brazilian system of private nature reserves (RPPNs): on land originally bought for hunting, it was set up by the Balboni family with funds received in compensation for the death of their brother Zizo, killed at the hands of Brazil's military regime in the 1960s. Chico Balboni (in photo here with Green-headed Tanagers) put it to me like this: "Our mission here is to preserve my brother's memory and to preserve nature at the same time."
Although less than 50km from Sítio do Cervo as the toucan flies, Zizo's Park is some 600m higher in altitude, and the 4-hour journey climbs the continental slope through Carlos Botelho State Park (website in Portuguese), where endangered Black-fronted Piping-Guans and Woolly Spider Monkeys (muriquis) are commonly seen
Inside the mountains
In the upper part of the Ribeira Valley, just over two hours' drive from Sítio do Cervo, the Parque Estadual Turistico Alto Ribeira, or PETAR (Upper Ribeira State Park), boasts some of the most extensive karst limestone cave systems in Latin America. Several of the caves are open to non-expert visitors, and a well-organised company called Ecocave arranges trips to some of the spectacular formations, using local guides. With few employment alternatives in the area, many of the guides might otherwise be making their living working for the palmiteiro gangs, poaching the precious palmito trees (Euterpe edulis) for the illicit heart-of-palm trade, denuding the forest of an essential food source for many species. The cave tours also involve walks through beautiful primary forest with fast-flowing streams, waterfalls and plenty of wildlife including howler monkeys. Recent birding visits have reported great results, including Black-headed Berryeater, Hooded Berryeater, Cinnamon-vented Piha and Spotted Bamboo-wren. There are several pleasant pousadas (guest houses) close to the area where the cave tours begin. I can particularly recommend Pousada das Cavernas , with simple but charming chalets overlooking the mountains, good home-cooked food and an ingenious tanager-feeder next to the dining area.
An interesting cultural feature of this region is that there is a high concentration of quilombo communities, villages where families can trace their ancestry back to escaped or freed African slaves who settled in remote areas to evade re-capture. Some are said to date back to the early 17th century, when the Ribeira river transported lead and gold from the mountains to the port at Iguape. One of these communities, Ivaporunduva (pictured here), has a guest house and can be visited by arrangement.
Islands and dolphins
The coastline running South from the Juréia offers some spectacular scenery with a complex of islands, estuaries and lagoons. A good base from which to explore this area is the town of Cananeia, one of the oldest colonial settlements in Brazil, about two and a half hours by car from Sítio do Cervo. Located on an island accessible by bridge from the mainland, boat trips can be arranged to the Ilha do Cardoso, an island state park with great forest trails and idyllic beaches where tucuxi dolphins (the species unique to coastal South America) can be seen easily. Although less showy and curious than their bottle-nosed cousins, the tucuxi will surface near boats if approached quietly. A few individual females have developed a technique of "beach-hunting" fish in which they can be seen rushing their prey with a dramatic dash just a couple of metres offshore. It is also possible to organise accommodation in traditional caiçara fishing communities on Ilha do Cardoso. Cananeia boasts some of the best oysters in Brazil.
Our friends in the North
Saw-billed Hermit and Green Honeycreeper at Folha Seca, Ubatuba. Photos: Tim Hirsch.
For birdwatchers with more time to explore, a visit to our, Southern coastal part of São Paulo could also be combined with a trip to the North-Eastern coastline heading towards the border with Rio de Janeiro state. The focal point here is the pleasant resort town of Ubatuba, whose municipal authorities are actively promoting birdwatching activities as part of the local tourism and employment strategy, a great innovation for Brazil. Portuguese-speakers can learn about the initiative here , and a British bird guide, Rick Simpson, is based in Ubatuba. With infectious birding enthusiasm dating back to early childhood, Rick takes visitors to some great locations in the region - see his site for details. They include the hummingbird paradise Folha Seca (see photo), a small property at the foot of the slope forest whose owner Jonas has perfected techniques of attracting hummingbirds in such huge numbers that they seem like insect swarms. Ubatuba is about 5 hours distant from Sítio do Cervo.